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  #11  
Old 05-02-2010, 08:40 PM
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Cool stuff. Have you had a look in Bernies woodstore? He gets good wood
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  #12  
Old 06-02-2010, 12:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes View Post
the body blank has been in the clamps for a good few hours now and is ok to come out and be drum sanded to correct thickness.
This surprises me. I would (or should that be "wood"?) have expected the clamping/gluing to have taken a couple of days to make sure it's not going to come apart. I assume this is not the case?
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  #13  
Old 06-02-2010, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryceee View Post
I would have expected the clamping/gluing to have taken a couple of days to make sure it's not going to come apart. I assume this is not the case?
Oh, come on man! Where's your sense of adventure?
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  #14  
Old 06-02-2010, 10:18 AM
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I'm just a bit surprised it was so quick that's all.
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  #15  
Old 06-02-2010, 11:00 AM
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It all depends which glue you use. the old hide glue which fender used dries really quickly too. I cant seem to find the old flake hide stuff that they used at the moment locally, only the hide liquid which isn't very good.]

on this build I am using a pva based wood glue which sets in around 30 mins and is ok to to take out of the clamps after an hour or so.

Last edited by wes : 06-02-2010 at 10:14 PM. Reason: got some words the wrong way round!
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  #16  
Old 06-02-2010, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wes View Post
It all depends which glue you use. the old hide glue which fender used dries really quickly too. I cant seem to find the old liquid hide stuff that they used at the moment locally, only the hide flakes which isn't very good.]

on this build I am using a pva based wood glue which sets in around 30 mins and is ok to to take out of the clamps after an hour or so.
Ooohhh! Who makes that then? It's obviously not good old exterior grade Evo-Stik Resin W as that does take 24hrs or so.

I'm also intrigued with a couple of other aspects of the build...

Why use a drum sander instead of a thicknesser?

What led to the choice of a plain-sawn neck rather than a quarter-sawn one? Historical Accuracy or timber constraints?

Pete.
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  #17  
Old 06-02-2010, 01:34 PM
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I can't remember the make of the glue, It's something Mike gets in, it's really good glue. I'll find out next time I'm back. Im hoping to get some hide glue from somewhere in the meantime as thats ideally what I want to use as that was what was used on the originals.

I did use a planer thicknesser for the initial wood prep. I finish off on a drum sander however as you will always get small machine marks and tear outs from a thicknesser. the drum sander allows you to be much more accurate with the overall thinckness and means less final sanding later on.

also I am personally not a fan of quatersawn necks. I prefer the resonance of the plain sawn maple. Fender used both quater and plain sawn , depending on what they could get from the maple blocks. Most of the old ones I've seen have been plain sawn though.

wes
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  #18  
Old 19-02-2010, 04:42 PM
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I wondered what you were doing the other other day in-between making the tea. Great work Wes, Your welcome down anytime.

Mike.
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  #19  
Old 19-02-2010, 04:49 PM
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Do you get everyone who visits you to make the tea, Mike?
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  #20  
Old 19-02-2010, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardH View Post
Do you get everyone who visits you to make the tea, Mike?
It's an old Essex tradition
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